Bullet-Point Summary: Get your Bleaching appropriate - EASY, FOOL-PROOF CHECKLIST

Use a an excellent quality bleach, and also get prepared your 20 or 30 Vol developer.Use 2 components of developer to 1 part of bleach. Mix in a non-metallic bowl till you acquire a smooth, pretty paste.Apply top top dry, unwashed hair.Use 20 Vol once you should lift by 1-2 levels.Use 30 Vol once you should lift by 3 levels or more.Always lift come a really pale yellow (see the snapshot above and additionally level 10 in the graph below).If over there is orange in the hair after ~ bleaching, the just method you did not bleach enough. You will have to rinse and also do the again. To obtain an even consistent result from root to ends, constantly apply bleach very first to the components that are the darkest or the brassiest so the they get much more processing time.If you have actually a dark regrowth come lift and blonde ends, only apply bleach come the regrowth area and lift that part up.Then rinse and also you will certainly be ready to tone.

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1. Which Bleach have to I Use?

A great quality lightener which will certainly lift quickly and also efficiently there is no breaking or damaging is yes, really essential. 

Ugly Duckling bleaches are an extremely safe and also have wonderful lifting properties.

If you space looking to carry out near-scalp bleaching, or if your client"s is excessively fine and also fragile and also prone come breakage, we would suggest that friend use Brilliant Blondexx lightener v Bond Protect.

Thanks come the Bond defend technology, that protects your hair native breakage together you elevator it.

It is additionally gentle enough to usage on the near-root area and near scalp bleaching v minimal scalp irritation.

This being said, we always recommend the you go together close to the scalp without actually poignant it if friend can. The bleach mixture will expand and also travel up in the direction of the root area even if you continue to be a quarter of an customs away indigenous the scalp.

Brilliant Blondexx lifts 7 level without inquiry excessively strong developers. 

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach v Bond Protect

2. What execute I require apart native bleach?

In enhancement to her bleach you will also need:

a developer - 20 or 30 Volume, occasionally botha hair tonerPurple shampoo and also mask for after that (optional)

You will likewise need application tools, consisting of rubber gloves, a couple of brushes and also bowls, a kitchen weighing scale, and also a timer.

Ugly Duckling does market a an excellent quality collection of skilled tools. They come totally free with several of Ugly Duckling"s blonding sets.

3. What Developer must I Use with Bleach?

If you space aiming to lift by 1-2 levels, you need 20 Vol developer.

If you are aiming to lift by 3 levels and also more, you require 30 Vol developer.

If you are working with very dark hair, climate you may need to execute a an initial application through 30 Vol developer and then do a 2nd application using 20 Vol developer. Just make a new mix and also reapply top top the bleaching hair while that is handling - no have to rinse and then bleach.

We execute not recommend the you ever before "bump increase the Volume" and use 40 Volume v our bleaches, nor is it crucial that you execute so. Simply stick come the above rules. Do multiple applications if necessary.

Use the level guide underneath come assess exactly how much bleaching is essential in your case & which developer you room going to need.

Once again, remember: if you space trying to gain to ash or platinum blonde, you have to lift all the method up to level 10. 

Hair colour Levels


4. What is the exactly Bleach to Developer Ratio? 

The encourage bleach to developer proportion is 1 part Bleach to 2 components developer.

This will provide you a relatively runny mix which will certainly be easy and quick to apply.

Our recommended "fairly runny" mix will certainly make it easier to cover all the hair evenly, thus avoiding patchy results.It will also enable you to work fast. This also way you have longer to work prior to the mixture turns dry.

The just time girlfriend will require a more thickness mixture i m sorry won"t drip is once you are doing a balayage (free painting of highlights) or as soon as you have a little area - for example a dark regrowth i m sorry you desire to emphasis on.

If a more thick mix is preferred, 1 component lightener come 1 part developer is good.

5. How perform I Mix the Bleach with the Developer?

Use the scoop listed in your Ugly Duckling bleach to measure out the bleach. Then you can use the very same scoop come measure out your developer.Later, once you are much more experienced, you have the right to do the by sight.

Mix the bleach v your color brush until it develops a smooth consistency (similar come gravy).Do this in a plastic mix bowl. Add the developer to the flour bleach a little at a time, stirring together you do.


What a bleach mix need to look prefer - runny, yet not as well runny.

5. Exactly how Should I use the Bleach on the Hair?

Hair bleach is similar to hair color. It is best used on dry, unwashed hair.Unwashed hair contains natural hair oils & this help protects the hair throughout the bleaching process.Before bleaching, just brush the hair so the you deserve to then ar & apply easily.

When applying, make fine segments utilizing a tailcomb. Use segment by segment and keep relocating around.

Always begin in the areas where the hair is thickest or darkest. Hair in ~ the back is generally the slowest come bleach.

Hair at the root usually processes the fastest.

6. How Long need to I leave the Bleach ~ above the Hair?

Video accuse - exactly how Long must you leave bleach top top the hair?

If your client"s hair is blonde (level 7 and higher) target at in between 15-20 minutes using 20 Vol developer.If your client"s hair is dark blonde/light brown (level 5-6), aim at approximately 30 minutes making use of 30 Vol developer.If your client"s hair is brown/dark brown (level 4-5), aim at roughly around 30-40 minutes making use of 30 Vol developer with fresh mix included in during processing time.

The above indications use to Ugly Duckling bleaches only. No all bleaches have the same lifting property.

More vital than the time is the target color that you space aiming for.You should keep watching and rinse only when the hair has been saturated lifted.

Remember, in most cases you need to try & achieve a very pale yellow - level 9 or 10. See pictures below for what level 9 and 10 watch like.

You require to examine that the hair is lifting every 10 minutes. If there are components which room drying out and still no lifted to really pale yellow, do some more fresh mix and just include it in.

Be bold, you space going to have to saturate the hair really well so that it activates fast and well.

You deserve to use foils. It will help keep warmth in and also speed up processing time.

Don"t rinse too early on - this is the number one mistake the stylists make! take it it to level 9 at least (see below).

After 40 minutes, rinse everything the level. It will certainly be dried anyway, and will have actually stopped working. (Bleach stops processing when it transforms dry).If you have actually not attained level 9/10, and noted the hair is tho in good condition (check by pulling a strand that it"s quiet elastic and strong) you can do a second application.

Asian hair, hispanic hair, other dark hair may require a 2nd bleach applications to take it to level 9 or level 10.Hair that has actually been box dyed dark or colored v a vibrant color in the past will also require a 2nd application.

When you room doing a second application, it must not be crucial to use 30 Vol. This time use 20 Vol.

You need to get rid of all the orange colours and additionally most the the yellow pigments prior to you rinse. When you get to your target level, rinse using an acidic shampoo. This will certainly close the hair cuticle after the bleaching process. You can also use purple shampoo. This will help neutralize the color and take away some of the yellow.







7. How execute I an application of bleach on the source area?

Generally speaking, virgin regrowth close to the source will process and lift relatively quickly because of the warm of the scalp.20 Vol developer is what you require for the regrowth area close to the scalp. Never ever use anything stronger there uneven you have some shade removal you should do.

If her client"s ends room perfectly light and only her regrowth is dark, then friend only need to use bleach top top the regrowth area.How lengthy you leaving it in will when again count on how easily that part takes to acquire to level 9/10.Brilliant Blondexx is a an excellent lightener to usage for a close to root applications - it"s an ext comfortable & we do strongly introduce it for near root applications.Note that you don"t actually should deposit the bleach mixture ~ above the scalp: we recommend you stay 1/8 customs away from the root area.The mixture will travel up, and the warm from the scalp will certainly take care of the rest.Section the hair finely when you apply your color, making use of a "pasting" motion with the brush.Then flick end a new section through your tail-comb and continue in this way.The finer and much more consistent your sections, the much better a lifting result you will certainly get.

Near root application with Brilliant Blondexx Bleach

Brilliant Blondexx Bleach handling for 35 min close to the root.

8. Exactly how do I execute a full head bleach?

If your client"s whole head is dark, or brassy friend will should do a full head application 

Section the hair right into 4 big sections v sectioning clips.Then unclip one section and also create mini half-inch sections making use of your tail comb.Start using bleach in the back of the head wherein the hair is normally darkest and thickest, working your method round come the former sections, in half-inch sections.

Work rapid so that that you can give the whole head an equal amount of handling time.

Keep the root area to the last uneven the hair is very short: the is walk to process faster there, so girlfriend need much less processing time.If you have been using 30 Vol developer for the lengths, it is a an excellent idea to do a fresh mix, through 20 Vol this time because that the root area.

Make sure that you saturate the hair properly with the product mixture. You need to literally smother the hair through bleach.Watch carefully and also rinse when done, and rinse anyway after ~ 30-35 minutes.If after rinsing you view that the hair is still not a pale yellow level 9/10, therefore a second application, using 20 Vol developer only this time.

Section the hair, climate start applying the bleach indigenous the back.

9. Just how do I obtain a nice also consistent an outcome from roots to ends? 

Very regularly clients have hair i beg your pardon is different colors. Take the client below:


This version has:

a regrowth area which is level 6mid-lengths which have actually been colored but which space brassy yellow - level 8/9ends which have been lightened many times in the past and also are really pale white blonde - level 10.

Clearly, it would be a mistake to just use bleach to the whole head. Girlfriend won"t acquire a an excellent result the way. You could additionally end up with breakage worries on those level 10 ends.

In such instances you together the barber will require to have actually a clear bleaching strategy. 

In the above case, we applied bleach an initial to the level 6 source area, then prolonged to the brassy part. We did not apply any type of bleach come the level 10 area.

Then us rinsed. Then we toned through an Ugly Duckling toner.

10. How do I Tone the Hair after ~ Bleaching?

You will have to tone the hair with a good quality toner. Otherwise over there will always be some yellow left.

Ugly Duckling toners are very fast exhilaration & lock remove any type of remaining yellowness in the hair. They plot in 10- 15 minutes. They have the right to be used on wet hair which has been bath towel dried ~ bleaching.

Use Intense Pearl Blonde 100V or Intense silver- Blonde 100B if your are searching for ultra white results and your hair still has actually a same amount of yellow. 

Use Pearl Blonde Toner 10V or Silver Blonde Toner 10B if friend are have actually already achieved a true level 10 and you space looking to carry out a update toning applications.

Ugly Duckling has actually other colors such as the blue based ash blonde series which additionally work an extremely well because that toning applications.Silver Grey and Smoky Blue Grey also work an extremely well.

extreme Pearl Blonde 100V
extreme Silver Blonde 100B
No-Lift Pearl Blonde Toner 10V
No-Lift silver Blonde Toner 10B
silver- Grey
Smoky Blue Grey
Extra light Cold Ash Blonde 10.1B
really Light Cold Ash Blonde 9.1B

And remember: never ever before start toning till you have carried the hair come a constant level 10 from root to ends.

11. How do I execute a bleach wash?

If you want to carry out a quick and also light shade correction to remove existing color build up, mix equal components Brilliant Blondexx Bleach, 20 Vol developer, shampoo and also warm water.

Then apply and also massage v the whole hair. Leave it for about 15 minutes and rinse off.

You should have the ability to get rid of in ~ least simple color accumulation in this way.

12. Just how long have to I leave bleach in hair as soon as I am utilizing 20 Vol, 30 Vol & 40 Vol Developer?

First that all, we execute not introduce you use 40 Vol developer with bleach.

If you space using a good quality bleach, (and this includes Ugly Duckling bleaches the course) it will work and lift really well through 20 or 30 Vol Developer.

For 20 and 30 Vol developer, the moment taken deserve to vary indigenous 15 minutes approximately 30 minutes.

Please note, however, there is no fixed breakthrough time v bleach - you need to inspect every couple of minutes and rinse as soon as the hair is lifted.

If you watch that specific parts the the hair room drying out during processing time or no lifting rapid enough, you must use your judgement and include in an ext fresh mix that bleach

13. I m sorry Ugly Duckling Bleach is appropriate for Me?

If friend are trying to find a very gentle bleach and also you space looking come lift 2-7 levels, we would recommend our brand-new Bond defend Brilliant Blondexx.It"s got a unique ingredient which consists of anti-breakage properties, it"s an extremely comfortable on the scalp, and also mixes come a color-like consistency.

If you have ultra dark asian hair, or if girlfriend have currently box colored her hair and also you need a super strong bleach to remove the color, then we would indicate Brilliant Blonde 8 Level+ Bleach.It"s a blue anti-dust bleach. It deserve to lift approximately 8 levels and also it has been particularly formulated because that dark asian hair i m sorry is the hardest of every to lift.

New excellent Blondexx through Bond Protect: The only lightener in the US v Bond Protect built in. Encourage for most bleaching cases, especially for near scalp and also root applications.


Brilliant Blonde Lightener: 8+ Level Lift. Recommended because that dark bases & wherein ultra high elevator is needed.

15. What Hair care Should I usage After Bleaching and Toning?

There room 2 hair care ranges the Ugly Duckling would recommend ~ bleaching.

The first is Ugly Duckling"s Purple Shampoo or Mask. 

These assets give you additional toning and aid keep the hair an extremely white. They contain very intense pigments which aid fight yellow.

Learn more About violet Shampoo and also Mask Here.

See pictures below.



The second is the brilliant Blondexx Hair treatment & therapy Line.

These assets contain Bond protect and aid strengthen bleached hair. 

Learn an ext About brilliant Blondexx Hair care Here.

16. What if I only want come go medium blonde. Carry out I still need bleach?

Using bleach is vital whenever you want to background hair through 3 levels and also more. For this reason if your hair is brown or even light brown (level 4) , and also you want to go to tool blonde (level 8), you have actually a 4 level lift come do. And also that needs bleach!


Case No.1

Our model had actually previously lightened blonde hair through a dark regrowth. It was also rather fragile.We used brilliant Blondexx Bond defend Bleach through 20 Vol Developer and also lifted her root area all the way up to a level 10.The processing time for the bleach was about 35 minutes. This to be done v 20 Vol developer.Then we toned with Pearl Blonde toner and 20 Vol Developer when more.Finally, we did one an extremely vigorous and also thorough applications of brilliant Blonde violet Shampoo. The result was a perfect white blonde an outcome - no hair damage and no breakage!

Watch the video Now!

Hair by Elona Taki.

See more: I Become Longer When The Third Letter Is Removed, I Am A Word


Brilliant Blondexx Bond safeguard Lightener20 Vol DeveloperPearl Blonde TonerBrilliant Blonde violet Shampoo

Case No.2

Lifting up of really dark source area making use of Brilliant Blondexx.

Watch the video clip now!

Hair by Ashley Betancourt


Brilliant Blondexx Bond defend Lightener10 V Pearl Blonde Toner20 & 30 Vol DeveloperBrilliant Blondexx Shampoo & Mask
about the author Sally Madison, National shade Trainer.

Sally has been a hair colorist and also trainer for countless years in both the us & Europe. She currently does hair color training because that Ugly Duckling. She also helps develop new & awesome products for the brand.